Sometimes you just want to get from A to B as quickly as possible, but there are times when taking the long way, however more tiring, will provide you with some of life’s greatest adventures.
Taking the back route through Petra is without doubt one of the best adventures you can do in Petra. It’s certainly more satisfying that striding through the main entrance with other tourists. Despite exhaustion, dehydration, and crawling at times on my hands and knees to escape falling hundreds of feet down crumbling cliff faces. The route is worth the effort and we had it all to ourselves.
The lesser-known entrance takes you first into Little Petra. A place where local Bedouins claim, “If you haven’t been to Little Petra, then you haven’t been to Petra at all”.
As I walked through a passage and up a crumbling set of carved-stone steps, I knew following the local’s advise was the right decision. This was going to be the best part of my trip to Jordan. Monuments, tombs, water cisterns and caves carved into grand canyons surrounded me with nothing else but the sand beneath my feet.
Inside Little Petra – frescos and water canals
Of all the wondrous areas within Little Petra that are open to the public, there is only one area that cannot be accessed. A cave fresco painted by the Nabataeans over 2000 years ago.
It is the only surviving example of Nabataen intricate painting left in the world. Unfortunately, it is now almost entirely destroyed by a fire and natural weathering. Little can be seen of the fresco except a few grape vines, various birds and cherubic figures. However, it is a reminder of how the Nabataeans created such a culturally rich and sophisticated civilisation.
Following Little Petra, my friends and I set our sights for Ad-Deir in Petra, popularly known as the Monastery. It is the second most popular attraction after the Treasury.
The trail from Little Petra to the Monastery
The distance between the two places is approximately 7km and takes around 3 hours by foot to complete. This included lots of stopping.
It’s a good idea to take a guide. Without one, the inevitability of getting lost in this vast landscape is almost guaranteed. You’re only a speck of dust in a terrain full of craggy mountain tops and barren land that stretches as far as the eye can see.
It’s a place where you really don’t want to get lost, especially with limited water supply and the sun beating down over you.
Bayda Neolithic Village
After we exited Little Petra, we followed the desire lines that led us onto a faint trail that leads through to the Bayda Neolithic Village which is supposed to be the oldest village in the world dating back 7000BC.
Archaeologists have determined that they cultivated barley and emmer wheat, and hunted goats in an early form of domestication. The latter of which is still prevalent as a source of income for the Bedouin people.
As we carried on, there was not a soul in sight. I felt privileged to have one of the world’s New Seven Wonders of the World at our feet. We danced around and shouted in exultation and heard nothing but the replies of our echoes. We knew an opportunity like this would not come around again and we savoured every minute of it.
Our guide was all for being our photographer too. Fun times! If you’re wondering what the marks are on our face, our guide thought it would be fun to put ‘make up’ on us for extra stage presence. The colour was drawn from a particular type of rock.
Notice how my friends are scrambling on the ‘easier’ route, whilst our guide casually walks along the thread bare cliff!
Note: in the subsequent years since I hiked this route, I’m told sections have been renovated to make it more walkable.
After carefully following our guide, we ventured down pathways that fell loose beneath our weight. We held onto jagged mountain faces and climbed across paper narrow routes that opened onto sheer drops.
Finally, the Monastery emerges
As the Monastery emerged from behind a canyon, our feet were instantly relinquished from tiredness and all our senses became completely captivated by Petra’s most colossal vision.
The spectacular facade
The façade is an awe-inspiring sight to behold, featuring a monumental structure carved directly into the rose-red sandstone rock.
Its name, “Al-Deir,” translates to “The Monastery” in Arabic, but it is believed to have served as a Nabatean tomb rather than an actual monastery. Despite its name, the exact purpose of this imposing structure remains a mystery, adding to its allure and intrigue.
Few places deserve its UNESCO World Heritage Site statue more than Petra, and indeed, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.
The return
After spending an hour around the monastery, and stopping for a much-needed refreshment, we followed the trail back down to the main entrance via the Treasury. It’s an additional 4km but at least it’s all downhill!
Where to stay in Petra
I stayed 2 nights at Petra Guest House Hotel, located on the doorstep of the Petra’s entrance.
The really good thing about this hotel is the Cave Bar, set in a restored 1st century Nabatean house, a gorgeous al fresco setting to relax with a cocktail after days of exploration. It’s also possible to book excursions or travel guides through the hotel.
? Search all hotels in Petra / Wadi Musa
Packing list
As you can see from the photos, we were not very prepared. Call it being young and dumb. However, I think these things are essential:
- Decent footwear with a good grip
- At least one 1 litre of water
- A small rucksack
- Sunscreen
- Snacks
- Lightweight, breathable clothing
Are you planning a trip to Jordan and looking for more inspiration?
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