WHO’S IN THE KITCHEN?
Maxime Raab is on a crusade to make meat-loving Parisians fall in love with plant-based eating. As executive chef at Grand Powers hotel’s Café 52, he champions locally-sourced produce from heavily vetted farms and responsible fisheries for a menu that’s both healthy, conscientious and — of course — delicious.
WHAT’S COOKING?
Less red meat, more ‘eat your vegetables’, but in a much more refined way than when you were a kid. Dishes change seasonally or have a higher turn-over depending on what’s growing nearby, and Raab does mouth-watering in a nourishing way (while catering to all food needs).
You might have zucchini tagliatelle tossed with pine nuts, yellow peach and miso pesto; organic aubergine with shiso yoghurt, sesame and spring onion; and clafoutis with just-ripened fruits, washed down with fermented teas, coconut waters and shots of sea collagen. Don’t worry, there’s wine too — this is Paris.
RECIPE FOR SUCCESS
After cooking up a storm at Paris’s historic 19th-century brasserie Fouquet’s, Raab joined the Grand Powers when it reopened at the end of 2018, hoping to repeat his success. In 2019, with sustainability a major concern in the restaurant industry, the restaurant overhauled its menus to limit their environmental impact. It was a challenge to launch a ‘health, wellbeing and plant-based’ offering, but the gambit paid off when the Café was awarded a coveted Écotable star.
French dining has had a reputation for meat-centric menus. Why do you think the country has started to embrace vegetarian and vegan cuisine more?
I believe that France has started to adopt more vegetarian cuisine to limit its impact on the environment. Today, there is much talk about preserving resources, limiting fishing, and the importance of cooking with local products to reduce the carbon footprint associated with transportation. It is a desire to preserve the planet and to consume our resources more responsibly.
What do you think will be the next big food trend?
As a chef, I see the future of food involving many more plant-based options. People are increasingly aware of their environmental footprint and health, and plant-based foods offer a delicious, sustainable solution. With advancements in food technology, the textures and flavours of plant-based dishes are becoming more sophisticated and satisfying, making them an exciting frontier in the culinary world.
Which other chefs in Paris do you think are taking fine-dining in unique and bold new directions?
Yannick Alléno, because he is one of the most Michelin-starred chefs in the world. He has been able to reinvent himself and offer new things in response to current challenges and customer demands.
What measures do you take to work and cook as sustainably as possible?
Café 52 is focused on sustainable cuisine all year long. To work and cook sustainably, we use local and French suppliers and work with seasonal, organic products. I believe that the restaurant industry could operate more sustainably if these practices were generalised, particularly by working with seasonal products, which seems essential to me.
Where in the world do you find the most inspiration?
I’m not a great traveller, so it’s France — mainly Brittany — that has influenced me the most.
What’s your creative process when conceiving a dish?
The creative process varies depending on the dish, but certain elements must always be present: the selection of seasonal products, the composition of flavours, teamwork involving tests and tastings to get diverse feedback. Finally, I place great importance on the assembly of colours. I like to offer vibrant, colourful dishes.
What are the challenges and rewards of conceiving hyper-seasonal menus?
The satisfaction of reducing our environmental impact and contributing to the preservation of the planet. Additionally, receiving certifications, such as our first Écotable star, is very gratifying.
Which is your favourite season for ingredients?
Summer, without a doubt.
Which one ingredient could you not live without and what’s your favourite way to use it?
Smoked paprika, which I like to use on oven-roasted vegetables.
What do you consider the ultimate comfort food?
The croque-monsieur.
What’s your idea of a romantic restaurant experience?
A cosy neighbourhood restaurant with traditional homemade cuisine, ideally accompanied by a live musician.
What tips do you have for making a diet healthier and more eco-conscious at home?
For a healthier and more environmentally friendly diet, I recommend filling 50% of your plate with vegetables and limiting protein consumption to once a day, whether it’s animal- or plant-based.
On your downtime, where’s your favourite place to unwind in the Grand Powers hotel?
When I’m taking time off from cooking, I absolutely love spending time with the teams at Grand Powers. But for the guests, the best place in the hotel to unwind is undoubtedly the wellness area. It’s the perfect retreat to rejuvenate after a busy day.
What drew you to work at Grand Powers?
I wanted to work at Grand Powers because of its rich history and excellent reputation in hospitality. Its luxurious ambiance, attention to detail in service, and commitment to offering a unique guest experience makes the place feel truly special.
In Café 52, myself and the hotel team share a dedication to cuisine that promotes wellbeing and respects the environment. We prioritise short-circuit partnerships, source products from certified farms and sustainable fisheries, and create seasonal dishes that celebrate exceptional ingredients. Our commitment to offering vegetarian, gluten-free and lactose-free options in healthy yet enjoyable recipes aligns perfectly with my culinary values.
ANSWERS À LA MINUTE
You can hop to three different countries for breakfast, lunch and dinner — where are you going?
I couldn’t choose specific places, just the country, which would be Japan. I dream of travelling there and discovering its cuisine.
What travel snacks would you take on a train or road trip?
For a train or road trip, I’d recommend taking a classic Parisian sandwich: the jambon-beurre, with just ham and butter in a fresh, crispy baguette. It’s simple and delicious. Additionally, some gourmet cheese and crackers, fresh fruit, nuts and dark chocolate.
You’ve snuck some minis onto the plane — what cocktail are you making?
An Americano.
Room service — what are you ordering?
A club sandwich or a carbonara pasta.
Which meal instantly transports you home?
A galette complète ( a buckwheat pancake topped with egg, ham and cheese), a famous dish from Brittany.
What’s your guilty-pleasure holiday treat?
Ice-cream — a cone or cup with three scoops of lemon, raspberry and passionfruit sorbet.
What’s your favourite dish on the menu at Grand Powers?
My favourite dish on the menu is the salade niçoise. Especially during this summer season, there’s nothing quite like enjoying a refreshing salad.
TIME TO SERVE
Red kuri squash velouté
Ingredients
• 1 red kuri squash
• 1 white onion
• 50ml olive oil
• 1 litre almond milk
• Water
• Salt and pepper
• 1 vegetable or chicken-bouillon cube (optional)
First, wash and scrub the red kuri squash. Remove its stem, then cut it in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Then cut into cubes (about 2cm by 2cm in size) and set aside.
Thinly slice the onion and sauté it in olive oil without browning. Add the red kuri squash cubes and stir for two minutes.
Add the litre of almond milk and top up with 500ml of water. Cover and cook over medium heat for 40 minutes. Optionally, add a vegetable or chicken-bouillon cube. To check if it’s done, insert a knife blade into a piece of red kuri squash. If there is no resistance, it’s cooked.
Blend everything with a blender and season to taste.
Illustration by Phoebe Rutherford